The article analyses why, despite advanced technology and consumers’ declarative readiness for change, almost 78% of raw materials used for making clothing is still polyester and cotton from intensive agriculture. It juxtaposes environmental and social costs of the dominant model – with special attention to leather industry and toxic tanning – with a wave of new generation textiles: fungi Mylo, pineapple leaves Piñatex, cactus Desserto, textiles made from grape marce, and invasive fish species. On the example of decline of Mylo and Swiss Renewcell, the text demonstrates systemic barriers, which block the scaling of successful innovations: scale-related costs, durability, logistics, risk for the global South, biodegradability trap, and consumers’ attitude-behaviour gap. In response, it presents the ideal of regenerative business in the craft variant (Veja, Elvis & Kresse) and engineering variant (Spinnova, Infinited Fiber Company). The author argues that the actual barrier is not the quality of alternative fibres, but rather the path dependence of the global production infrastructure – and that without regulations, carbon tax, and supply-chain transparency, another “wonder threads” are going to share Mylo’s fate.
Keywords: sustainable fashion, alternatives for leather, textile biomaterials, regenerative industry, path dependence